A ruffle, frill, or furbelow is a strip of fabric, lace or ribbon tightly gathered or pleated on one edge and applied to a garment, bedding, or other textiles as a form of trimming. The narrow-shouldered, wide-cuffed "trumpet" sleeves characteristic of the 1540s and 1550s in France and England disappeared in the 1560s, in favor of French and Spanish styles with narrower sleeves. Most of the time they ended in the loss of property, title and even life. Longer styles were popular in the 1580s. The origins of the trend for sombre colours are elusive, but are generally attributed to the growing influence of Spain and possibly the importation of Spanish merino wools. Men And Women, France, 16th Century. One of hundreds of thousands of free digital items from The New York Public Library. [6], Since Elizabeth I, Queen of England, was the ruler, women's fashion became one of the most important aspects of this period. Smocks were made of rectangular lengths of linen; in northern Europe the smock skimmed the body and was widened with triangular gores, while in Mediterranean countries smocks were cut fuller in the body and sleeves. ... A fun little digital artscene I created using one of the fashion plates and an EKD created background. [22] After that date, either kirtles or petticoats might have attached bodices or bodies that fastened with lacing or hooks and eyes and most had sleeves that were pinned or laced in place. Imagno / Getty Images History & Culture. A low-neck gown was worn over a petticoat during this period. Focusing on the shoulder point, sleeves and skirts for women were widened. Scarves, although not often mentioned, had a significant impact on the Elizabethan style by being a multipurpose piece of clothing. Slops could also be pansied. French designs are the most attractive in the fashion world since the 15th century. High-necked smocks were worn under high-necked fashions, to protect the expensive outer garments from body oils and dirt. Ruffs also had a jewelry attachment such as glass beads, embroidery, gems, brooches or flowers. In the 1820s, women's dress came with waistlines that almost dropped with elaborate hem and neckline decoration, cone-shaped skirts and sleeves. Italian and German fashion retained the front-laced bodice of the previous period, with the ties laced in parallel rows. Ruffles got associated with neckband of a shirt and were shaped with clear folds. Women's outer clothing generally consisted of a loose or fitted gown worn over a kirtle or petticoat (or both). French fashion and costume history of the 18th century. The bodices of French, Spanish, and English styles were stiffened into a cone or flattened, triangular shape ending in a V at the front of the woman's waist. Women's fashions of the early 16th century consisted of a long gown, usually with sleeves, worn over a kirtle or undergown, with a linen chemise or smock worn next to the skin. This make-up, called Ceruse, was made up of white lead and vinegar. In England, the Spanish farthingale was worn through the 1570s, and was gradually replaced by the French farthingale. Her son Carlos Balthasar died shortly after his 16th birthday prompting Philip to remarry due to Elisabeth's untimely death. The Kings of France returned to Paris from the Loire Valley. 9. Huge collection, amazing choice, 100+ million high quality, affordable RF and RM images. Kybalová, Ludmila, Olga Herbenová, and Milena Lamarová: Mikhaila, Ninya, and Malcolm-Davies, Jane: Netherton, Robin, and Gale R. Owen-Crocker, editors, This page was last edited on 1 January 2021, at 10:32. The true corset, called a vasquine in Spanish, arose in the first half of the 16th century in Spain. [38] Optionally, a jerkin, usually sleeveless and often made of leather, was worn over the doublet. Renaissance Dresses. Kothurne. [45], Fashionable shoes for men and women were similar, with a flat one-piece sole and rounded toes. The slashing technique, seen in Italian dress in the 1560s, evolved into single or double rows of loops at the shoulder with contrasting linings. High-necked bodices styled like men's doublets might fasten with hooks or buttons. The characteristic garment of the period was the ruff, which began as a modest ruffle attached to the neckband of a shirt or smock and grew into a separate garment of fine linen, trimmed with lace, cutwork or embroidery, and shaped into crisp, precise folds with starch and heated irons. Mantles were also popular and described as modern day bench warmers: a square blanket or rug that is attached to the shoulder, worn around the body, or on the knees for extra warmth. 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